Sewing Machine Maintenance

Sometimes our sewing machines get dusty, sometimes they start making a strange sound or have a strange smell. These are all signs that your machine might a need a cleaning.

*Every sewing machine is different, what I do on my machine may be different than what you are supposed to do on your machine, please refer to your machines manual for the proper care instructions.

Even though we take care of your machines it is important to have it serviced by a professional regularly. If you use your machine often, for large projects, once a year is a good idea. If you just use your machine for small projects every once in a while, it can wait longer.

Some sewing machine care quick tips:

-Never pull thread backwards through your machine, this ruins the tension disks causing the thread to be too loose.
-Never turn the wheel of the sewing machine away from you, always towards you, turning it backwards will knock the timing off causing the machine to skip stitches.
-Never try to sew with the presser foot up, it should always be down when sewing. Putting the presser foot down engages the tension disks. Without the tension disks engaged the thread will be too loose and will knot and tangle in the bottom of the machine. If you need to do free motion sewing there are specialized presser feet for it.

Space Pants (Simplicity Pattern 9871)

Aside from a pillow case, pajama pants have to be one of the best beginner projects and the best introduction to pattern reading. Simplicity 9871 is a very easy pajama pants pattern. It's one I've used multiple times. My husband saw this cool, colorful space fabric and had to have a pair of pants.

If you're looking at this pattern and confused or terrified of the daunting task in front of you don't fear I'll walk you through it.

I used:
Simplicity Pattern 9871
Size XL
3yds of Fabric -Large Planets (It only calls for 2 7/8  but I always get that extra save it for quilting and stuff)
Black thread
1 inch elastic

Happy Sewing

Basic Pattern Symbols

Now that you’ve gotten your first pattern, you’ve figured out your size, and you’ve gotten your fabric you are ready to start sewing. Once you open your pattern and cut out your size you may look at the pieces and realize there are several symbols on the pieces. Each symbol has it’s own importance when it comes to making your garment. I’m going to introduce you to the basic and most common pattern symbols.

-Grain Arrow / Fold Arrow

These will be the most common symbols you will see, almost all pattern pieces will have one or the other.

The Grain Arrow

When laying your pattern pieces on your fabric to cut, you want your grain arrows to be parallel to your selvedges, this is done so that when you make your garment the pieces sit on your body and drape properly.

The Fold Arrow

A fold arrow is used, instead of a Grain Arrow, when the pattern piece needs to be placed against a fold. Instead of cutting two identical pieces you will cut one symmetrical piece.

-Notches

Notches are another symbol that will be on almost all pattern pieces.

Notches are used to match your pattern pieces up after you’ve cut your fabric. When you pin your pattern pieces together you want your notches to match up so that your seams will properly fit. Also they help if you are working with stripes or plaids so that your front and back will have matching stripes.

-Dots

You will run across quite a few dots on your pattern journey

These can signify multiple things. They can signify where to stop sewing a seam, like where you are going to stop a seam, like a split in a skirt, or the point where the zipper is going to start. They can also signify where a button or buttonhole is going, an eyelet, a hook and eye, etc. Usually the instructions will tell you what to do with your dots.

These are the basic symbols you will find in a beginner pattern. If you ever get confused about what a certain symbol means the pattern will have a legend for the symbols in the general sewing directions.

How to Read a McCall's Pattern

So we discussed how to read a Simplicity pattern now we’ll talk about a McCall’s pattern. There is not that much of a difference between McCall’s and Simplicity, only how everything is set up.

But introductions now.

McCall's M6819

Here’s our MCcall’s Pattern again not something I would pick for a beginner but for example purposes it works.

First we will talk about what’s on the front of the envelope.

Brand and Pattern Number

Here is the brand and pattern number, they tell you what pattern you have and it is how you find the pattern in the store.

Next on the front

Size

This is where you find the pattern sizes. This is the range of sizes this pattern will make, you want to pay attention to these sizes because like Simplicity….

Spot the difference?

The patterns can come in two different size ranges. Like these two.

Also they come in one size

McCall's 6981

Like this one.

And instead of size ranges some McCall’s patterns come in Kids and Adult sizes

McCall's 5954

Like these two which means the size chart will feature both child’s sizes and women’s sizes.

Finally on the front is the views

This one has two, and I looked but I have yet to find a McCall’s pattern that only has one view.

Now the huge difference between Simplicity and McCall’s starts on the back, but before we go there I have to point out something McCall’s has on their envelope flap.

This is where the size chart is going to be.

And the ones for children and adults will look a little different.

Like the one on this one, it has the child sizes by number and the adult sizes by small, medium, and large.

The one size pattern doesn’t have a size chart.

Now moving on to the back.

Don’t freak out now, you don’t have to re learn how to read patterns. It has all the same things that a simplicity pattern has only in a different format.

Up top is a description of the items being made. It has a written description of the difference between the different views.

Since the size chart is on the envelope flap this goes straight into the fabric information. Like the simplicity you find the size you need and then follow the column down to find the amount of fabric you need for the view you want to make.

This little note right here is just telling you that there’s more yardage information of the inside. Also the list of notions will be inside on the instructions sheet.

Here is where the list of suggested fabrics is. At the top it tells you “designed for light to medium weight woven fabrics” and then gives you a short list of what kind of fabrics it’s talking about.

Next up

This is where the finished garment measurements are, it has few and then tells you that the rest  of the measurements are on the tissue paper.

And finally

The views this one gives you front and back for both views on this pattern.

Now to look at the back of a one size pattern

Not much different but each fabric needed only has one set measurement.

Now the one with both Kids and Adult sizes looks more like a simplicity pattern.

It has the yardage for both the Childrens and Misses sizes but it lacks the views that the others have.

Now that’s all that’s on a McCall’s envelope time to look inside.

Inside you’ve got your instructions, in the newspaper type print, and pattern pieces, on the tissue paper.

First on the instructions

Another look at views front and back

Next to that.

The general sewing instructions, they aren’t that much different than simplicity, the symbols are relatively the same and the instructions generally the same.

Under that

The list of pattern pieces, the numbers and their name, McCall’s likes to categorize their list by what each piece is for. Like top and bottom, or by each view.

Next

These are the necessary items that were not listed on the envelope. The interfacing lining and notions. They are like the yardage chart on the back with the sizes listed and follow the columns to find out how much you need.

And next up

The cutting layouts, not much different from simplicity just follow the pictures and cut out the pattern pieces accordingly and you will find you have plenty of fabric.

And finally on the newspaper paper

The sewing instructions. Once you cut your pattern pieces according to the cutting layout and put them together according to the instructions you will have a garment.

Now for a look at the pattern pieces.

Here’s an example of a pattern piece from McCall’s 6819

First up

Here’s the brand and pattern number to help you keep track of what pattern you are working on and what pattern this piece goes with.

And then

This is the pattern piece number to help you remember what piece you are working with.

Now to zoom in a bit.

Here’s the pattern piece name to help you understand what this piece is for.

And under that

This is what to cut, so when you do the cutting layout you are getting what you need to do the whole project. You don’t want to be in the middle of a project and realize you didn’t cut out the lining or interfacing you need.

Another thing on some of the pattern pieces is the finished garment measurements.

It has a different measurement for each size, this is the measurement around the arm for the sleeve.

Don’t panic it’s very similar to a simplicity pattern, it’s not like having to learn a new language, and things get easier once you start doing more pattern projects. Hopefully i’ve deciphered enough for you to get you through at least one easy project.

Happy Sewing

How to read a Simplicity Pattern

Forewarning this post is very picture heavy

So you’ve learned how to do basic sewing, you may have done a few easy beginner projects, and now you’re ready to try something more advanced. Well…..

I introduce to you a Simplicity pattern

Simplicity 1558

This pattern is more advanced than what I would choose for a beginner but for example purposes it works. I’m going to have other examples of simplicity patterns in this post, but we will keep coming back to this one.

A pattern, in my own words anyway, is the instructions on how to make the item, or items, it pictures. It contains shaped templates that you cut out of fabric and the instruction on how to piece the shapes together to make the item or items pictured.

When you look at pattern you’ll notice right away that there is tons of information written on the envelope alone, not to mention all the information inside the envelope.

First thing’s first, on the front of the envelope.

The Brand and Pattern Number

These two bits of information are the pattern brand and number. It’s kind of like make and model on a car. It tells you what pattern you have and also how you find the pattern in a store.

Next on the front is

Sizes

The pattern size. This tells you what size or sizes the pattern, you grabbed, can make. Some patterns are “One Size” like this one

A One Size Pattern, Simplicity 1392

Which means that whatever the pattern makes only comes in one size, like patterns for bags, curtains, accessories, dolls, etc., things that don’t normally need to have a different size.

Most clothing patterns are multi-sized, meaning the envelope contains the templates to make more than one size, to fit a wide range of people. Each multi-sized pattern will have  a range of sizes it was designed to make. You always want to pay attention to the range of sizes a specific pattern can make.

Why you ask, look at these two patterns.

Can you spot the difference

They look identical don’t they. They are, except for one thing, if you look where the pattern size is one says “6, 8, 10, 12” while the other says “14, 16, 18, 20, 22”. These are the same pattern in two different size ranges. This pattern was designed in sizes 6 to 22 but instead of putting all of the available sizes in one envelope they split the range in half. Why? I don’t truly know. It could be so that you’re not having to buy a huge envelope, of 10 different sizes, to make one size. It also could make using the pattern pieces, and cutting out the right size easier, especially on smaller pieces. Anyway, you want to make sure pattern you are buying is the size you want to make, nothing like getting home with all the fabric and notions, only to realize your pattern is in the wrong size.

What size do you need? We will get to that when get to the back of the envelope but first there’s one last thing on the front.

The different views

The lovely pictures on the show what the pattern will make, different items made with the same pattern are called views. Views are indicated by letters (circled in blue). This pattern has two views. The outfit with the shorter skirt and jacket is View A, while the longer skirt and corset is View B.

Some patterns will have lots of views like this one.

Many views

This one goes all the way to view O.

And some patterns only have one view like this one

One view, Simplicity 9871

It only makes one item.

And then theres this type.

Simplicity 2172 Don't freak out about the price I got it during a $1 sale

This is technically one view, both dresses are the same design and use the exact same pattern pieces the same way, the only difference is the fabric chosen. What makes this different than the pants pattern is that this dress is made up of three different parts, the skirt the, the bustier, and the jacket.

I like the call the pictures on the front inspirational views because they really are just a quick look at what the pattern could possibly make they don’t really go into detail as to what’s involved or even the differences between views. You will have to look on the back for that and that is exactly where we’re going now.

The back of 1558's envelope

This is the back of the envelope.

It has lots of information, a lot more than the front. This is only half the back because the other half is the same information only in a different language. Don’t freak out we’re going to talk about each area of the back and what they are for.

The back views

This spot right here is a reiteration of the different views, mainly the back of each view. This is  always a great way to figure out what is actually included in the pattern, some patterns will be shirts pictured with pants but the pants are not included in the pattern, so you will see the pants on the front but not the back.

This view is also more detailed about what skills will be involved, like zippers at the tops of the skirts, and gathering at the tops of the sleeves.

Next on the back

Suggested Fabrics

This area is the suggested fabrics. It’s a list of fabric types that this pattern was designed to use. Note I said suggested fabrics, you can use other fabrics the biggest thing you want to pay attention to is that you do not use a stretch or knit fabric for a pattern that was designed for a woven fabric, and do not use a woven fabric for a pattern that was designed for a stretch or knit fabric.

Next up:

Notions required

The notions required. This is where you’ll find information on all the extra items you will need besides fabric. It will list thread, buttons, zippers, closures, and anything else you might need besides your fabric.

And then the all important:

Size Chart

Size chart. This is how you figure out what size you need to make. You have to take your measurements to figure out what size of pattern you need to cut out. Always double check your measurements from pattern to pattern and especially when crossing from different pattern companies, and it’s a good idea to keep your measurements updated regularly (like every few months or so), you’d be surprised how much an inch can change your pattern size. Different sizes can drastically change the amount of fabric needed, also.

How do you find out how much fabric you need?

Yardage information

This area is where you will find out how much you would need of By-the-Yard items you would need. Anything that can be sold by the yard, like ribbon, elastic, boning, interfacing, aaaand…… FABRIC!!!

This part lists the views separated by a line, and then lists each fabric needed for that view. On  the left side of this chart, underneath the words “A Jacket”, is the number 60 with an asterisk. This number is the fabric width that the pattern is referring to, some patterns will list it in both 45 inch and 60 inch, this one only lists the 60 inch because it was designed with a 60 inch in mind. This does not mean that you have to use a 60 inch you can use a 45 inch but will need more fabric and you will have to arrange pattern pieces differently.

Now lets say you took your measurements and figured out you’re a size 14.

The yardage for size 14

Just follow that column down to the view you want and it will tell you how much fabric you need for your size. It’s as easy as that.

One final thing on the back

Finished garment measurements

These are the finished garment measurements. These are the maximum measurements a certain size will fit after it has been made. This is something you want to check in case you aren’t sure what size you need. If you look at the finished garment measurements it can tell you that maybe you can go down a size or maybe you need to go up a size. This is a fairly loose fitting garment so the finished garment measurements are fairly large.

This area also gives you length if you are working with skirts or pants patterns. A way to measure and tell that maybe you need to get extra fabric to lengthen the skirt, or maybe you need to shorten it.

As you may have realized this is for a multi sized pattern and the back will look different on a “One Size” pattern.

Back of a one size pattern

As you may have noticed on this one there is not size chart. Since this pattern only comes in one size, there is no change in the amount of fabric needed, so there is no need for a size chart. The many views are still separated by a line, and also notice that since there are so many different views on this one, the notions are listed with the particular view they go with.

Next the one view patterns

Back of a one view pattern

This one has the lettered sizes instead of numbers so the measurements are in a size range instead of set numbers. Like extra small is 31-32. Since it only has one view it only lists the fabric needed once. It still has the finished garment measurements and still follows the column but there’s not other information to get in the way.

And the other one

Back of the other one view one

Since this is one view it lists all the notions needed in one place. Even though it’s one view all the three items that make up the view are listed separately. It also has different yardage listed for 45 inch versus 60 inch. It still has the finished garment measurements at the end and included for the skirt is not only the length but the circumference of the bottom, which is 216 inches (that's 18 feet). It's good to know in case you want to add a structured garment underneath, like a hoop skirt, crinoline, or bustle.

And that’s the back of the envelope now let’s go back to 1558 and delve inside the envelope.

What's inside the envelope?

Inside the envelope you will find tissue paper and newspaper like paper. The tissue paper has the pattern pieces on it and the newspaper paper has the instructions on it.

First a look at the instructions

Another picture of the views front and back

Again there is another detailed look at the different views, front and back views.

Beside that

Pattern piece list

This is the list of pattern pieces contained in this envelope. It gives you a picture of each pattern piece, a number for the piece, and the piece’s name. In the written instructions the pattern is referred to by name not really by its number. If you’re ever confused about  what number goes with what name just refer to this list.

Next up

General Sewing Directions

These are the general sewing instructions they are typically the same in all patterns. They give you basic instructions and definition of certain terms, like layering a seam and what seam allowance is and stuff.

It also gives you a legend to what the pattern symbols mean. If you are confused you can refer to these directions to find out what to do.

The next three pictures are……

Cutting layouts

These are cutting layouts. They show you the most economical way to cut your pattern pieces out of fabric. The cutting layouts are designed to use the amount of fabric called for on the back of the envelope. Unless you bought extra fabric it would be a good idea to follow these.

This pattern only uses 60 inch fabric, but if you were using a pattern that used both 45 inch and 60 inch it would have separate cutting layouts for the different widths. They not only show how to layout the pattern pieces on the fabric but also how to layout your fabric, such as standard fold or crosswise fold.

And finally

The actual instructions

These are the actual instructions for this specific garment. There are written instructions and pictured instructions, and they tell you how to put your pattern pieces together to make the garment.

Next up is the tissue paper.

The fragile tissue paper

This is going to have all of your pattern pieces on it. It’s very fragile so be very careful with it.

Unfold it and find the piece you need.

Pattern pieces 3 and 6

We’re going to say we need these two pieces. I know there is a lot written on these pieces  but I’m going to break it down.

Brand and pattern number

This  is the brand and pattern number gain, this is put on each piece so once you cut it out you’re not hunting for what pattern it goes with.

Pattern piece number

These are the pattern piece numbers. They label the piece for cutting and sewing so you’re never wondering which piece is which.

Pattern piece name

These are these are the names of the pattern pieces, it’s usually how they are referred to in the written instructions and it will help you figure out which piece is fo what.

Cutting instructions

This is what to cut, even though it tells you what to cut and how many in the cutting layout, the pattern piece itself will tell you what needs to be cut out.

Sizes

Notice all these numbers on the different lines. These are the sizes, all the sizes are on one pattern piece. You have to cut along the lines that match your size. Be careful cutting out the size you need, sometimes you may be the outermost line sometimes you’ll be the innermost line.

Once you cut out the pieces you need and then follow the cutting layout, follow the instructions you will have a finished garment.

Don’t freak out about all this information just yet. It all starts to come together and make sense when you start doing your first pattern projects

Next we will discuss a Mccall’s Pattern.